A chic and sensual Parisian at Alexandre Vauthier. At Alexandre Vauthier the Parisian is always present, but every season brings its own new version. For this latest haute couture collection, she appears both chic and sensual, determined yet stylish. The tailoring becomes more graphic even when the trousers are supple.

The citron yellow and the prints (a first for Vauthier) bring dynamism, whilst the ‘flou’ is worked on to the point of obsession in some of the dresses. Black changes from deep to transparent, gold studs on a pair of leather trousers or a jacket induce a rock spirit, quickly forgotten through long sleeved extended sheath dresses which envelope yet at the same time reveal the body, such as the latest black designs with beaded ties. At Vauthier a brutal and positive energy is expertly deployed, shared, and delightedly received.

Alexandre Vaulthier :
This collection is excessively Parisian, very rigorous, in very Parisian codes of colours like marine blue, grey, white, black, but also a little spice with a very dynamic citron yellow. We even studied polka dots which are one of this season’s prints and which are still extremely feminine and Parisian in peoples’ minds, and are also a kind of hound’s-tooth, a bit like in the thirties. It’s also the first time that I have ever handled a print. I wanted to break away from all of this, and find myself a non-parisian atmosphere but one that was ultra hard-surfaced, very brutal, yet with a very sophisticated setting. It’s actually the colour of the parking lot floor of the Maison de la Radio which made me want this plain and multifaceted setting with red mirrors.

The meticulousness and precision of tailoring, I think I’m crazy about tailoring. I began with Mugler, who was doing quite complicated pieces. He really moulded me from an architectural point of view of tailoring, and I am passionate about accurate shoulders, perfect figures, sleeves that are turned up in this way and that, the adjustments that are needed, and where. Yes, I have a great passion for tailoring.

What is also amazing are the human relationships with all of these handcraft professions, and surpassing yourself in order to manage to find new techniques and approaches, which is really interesting in couture. All of this isn’t a lost cause, as it enriches the prêt-a-porter collections in every way.